Mozambique is a beautiful country with a rich history that fascinated me as a young girl when I read about its fight for independence.
I finally ticked Mozambique off'my experience list' and many dollars lighter due to the cost of flight tickets.
I love Africa, and I am passionate about contributing to its growth. However, navigating this beautiful continent often feels like an uphill task because of the crazy flight costs. It is disappointing to see how the leaders on this continent refuse to tap into the potential of affordable intra-African travel.
My recent trip to Mozambique was a case in point. Despite being relatively ‘close’ to my home country, Kenya, the flight cost took a chunk off my travel budget. While I am thrilled to have finally explored this stunning country, the question remains: was it worth the financial sacrifice?
Yes, if you are looking to experience new African spaces.
As well as no, because you may find cheaper alternatives in other countries.
Mozambique was a country I was supposed to visit after my Madagascar trip. However, life happened. I got laid off and cancelled my trip due to the fear of the unknown. In hindsight, due to the costs of rebooking my ticket, I should have gone last year.
As a Kenyan, you will enjoy visa-free entry and a smooth immigration process upon arrival by air. The experience might differ when entering by land. For ease of travel, have a return ticket before check-in. Unfortunately, the Kenyan flight agents suspect citizens of one ‘developing nation’ are itching to escape to another!
Mozambique’s currency is the Metical, which you can get at ATMs. Mobile money payments are also available, and most establishments accept credit or debit cards.
Given how big the country is, my exploration was limited to Vilanculos and Maputo.
My first stop was:
Vilanculos
From the skies, you will see a mix of trees and the beautiful ocean. At some point, I felt like I was in an aquarium landing in the country. This is a popular destination for lovers, honeymooners, and Southern Africans. Therefore, it is a very chill place to relax, unwind, and reflect. My primary agenda here was to visit the Bazaruto Archipelago, but I discovered more beautiful things to do.
Bazaruto Archipelago
The Bazaruto archipelago consists of five islands: Bazaruto (the largest island of the five), Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina (also called the Island of Paradise), and Banque. I had the opportunity to visit the Bazaruto and Benguerra Islands.
Bazaruto, or ‘Ushurutswa’ as the locals originally called it, translates to the ‘Island of the Mist’. The island was nothing short of beautiful. The powdery white sands, calm waters, and smooth shells were a dream—I only wish I had seen the ocean’s azure blue hues under a clear sky. If you are lucky, you can spot some dolphins and get an opportunity to see the rare dugongs here—I was not that lucky.
My highlight was snorkelling in the protected coral reefs. The abundant marine life, including a glimpse of the Dory fish, was breathtaking. I was particularly impressed by the local efforts to preserve the reef by prohibiting anchoring. It was an underwater paradise I could have explored endlessly.
The archipelago also has expensive resorts for those with a lot of change to spare. The tourists staying in these resorts are chartered in with a helicopter—so much for me trying to save the planet one paper straw at a time.
Mercado Municipal
If you love local spices, artefacts, or clothes, this is the place to get them. If you do not speak Portuguese, it is best to visit with a local guide. My host was gracious enough to take me, and though she did not speak English, we got by.
Eat local food
When in Rome or in this case Mozambique….
You cannot be in Mozambique and not have one of their local dishes—matapa. In Vilanculos, you can have it at Zita’s Restaurant. Bonus mention: If you love beer, their local beer is not gassy—the 2M.
Catch the sunset at the Red Dunes (Dunas Vermelhas)
Go to the red dunes to catch the best sunset in the town. The fastest way to get here is using a quad bike. The other alternative is to get a tuk-tuk from the town; it will drop you 30 minutes away from the dunes, and you will take a short hike.... and yes, the sand is red.
Take a walk into the town
The best way to learn about a place is to observe, visit its markets, and listen to the people. You will not experience this in your accommodations. So, I got out and took a walk. Even without being able to speak the language, I got by—even as I waited to use the ATM with no clear queue, a lovely lady was able to ensure I was not skipped in the line. You can cool off with a freshly made sugarcane drink from a mobile cart.
Maputo
Here you can opt to go for a free walking tour—it's not free. You give the guide a tip of your liking, or you can choose to walk on your own. I had chosen the latter but ran into a free walking tour guide, Samuel, after I finished seeing the Iron House. I am glad I got him as my guide because he broke down the information about all the sites I saw and took beautiful pictures of me. This is what a day in Maputo looks like:
Street art and colourful buildings
I found Maputo to be very colourful. The majority of buildings I saw had unique themes. My guide shared that after the fight for independence, the people of Mozambique destroyed many of the colonial buildings and rebuilt them from scratch.
Casa de Ferro — Iron House
It was built in Belgium in 1892 and then shipped to Mozambique, where it was assembled. It was meant for the then-governor of Mozambique, but they never used it due to the hot climate.
Today, the Iron House is used by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism. As a foreigner, you will pay around 100 meticals to enter and see some art pieces. If you love art, enter; if not, see it from outside.
It is also opposite the Maputo Botanical Garden.
Tunduru Botanical Gardens— Park with free wifi
While my country is gatekeeping public parks, other countries have opened their parks, and they have free Wi-Fi. You can see how instrumental access to free Wi-Fi is valued by the young people of Mozambique. Tunduru Botanical Gardens is the largest botanical garden in Mozambique. The park has massive tropical trees that provide shade, and bats feast on the fruit trees.
Catedral de Maputo
If you love church architecture or want to pray, this is the place to be. Pope John Paul also visited this church.
Praca da Indepedencia
It is a public square and a focal point of Maputo. You will see the large statue of Samora Machel. It is also close to Maputo City Hall, where you can see what Maputo looked like before and after colonisation.
Rue d’Arte
The street of art. Here, you will see some beautiful murals done by local artists. It is a lovely place to take some pictures and soak up the art.
Museu dos CFM — Maputo Railway Station
Voted as one of the most beautiful railway stations in Africa. I cannot refute the claims. You also get a chance to be in the restaurant where Leo Di Caprio shot blood diamonds, and your butt cheeks can sit where he sat.
Fortress of Maputo
What better way to know about Portuguese imperialism than a fort in every non-landlocked country? Here you get to see where the remains of Gungunhana lay. The King/Lion of the Gaza Empire rebelled against their rule and was exiled to Portugal, where he passed on.
Central Market
If you want affordable souvenirs, taste local fruit, and get the best cashew nuts….then this is the place to be.
Waterfront to view the Katembe — Maputo bridge
Once you are done with your walking tour, you can regroup with a cup of tea and enjoy a ‘national’ pastry known as the pastel de nata at Taverna Doce or have some gelato at Vanilla Gelado Italiano. But better yet, take a walk on the waterfront to maybe catch the sunset if it is not cloudy and enjoy a lovely sugarcane drink. The Katembe—Maputo bridge will also light up in the evening.
I usually fear travelling alone because I do not know what to expect on the other end. However, I experienced the most amazing souls in Mozambique and my journey here. Starting with my flight to Mozambique from Kenya, I met an older lady who shared a quote that stuck with me throughout my trip: ‘Be in the moment'—a message I needed at the time and I cherish. Thank you, Barbara. We yapped from Nairobi to Johannesburg. As well as Vilanculos—my host's house manager, the random man at the airport who made sure to connect me to my cab (the airport did not have any SIM cards or wifi), and the coolest TukTuk driver, Domingo—who did not speak English but he made sure I was well taken care of. Last but not least, my trusted kind of by-force travel buddy—Drew and his friend from the airport who joined us in our adventures and helped me curate my ‘day in Maputo’.
Some contacts:
If you would like to take the tour to Bazaruto Archipelgo reach out to Jeff and his team they are very reliable and professional +258 82 912 0658.
For a free walking tour in Maputo reach out to Sam on +258 84 029 5603.
